NB: I wrote this more than a month ago but waited to post until CW had uploaded our pictures. He did that soon enough, but by then I had gotten really busy at work and never got around to writing about the next three days—will work on that now.
Took the Continental red-eye, which unlike the one we took to London a couple years ago, leaves at 3 p.m., which makes it a little harder to sleep. A big tailwind meant we got in an hour early, at 7 a.m., meaning we had quite the long day ahead. Charles De Gaulle, I must say, is a real mess of an airport, with no convenient way to move between terminals and awful traffic.
We opted for the Air France bus to the Arc de Triomphe, since quite a few of the travel books we’d read ahead of time warned of pickpocketers on the Metro line from the airport especially, but in Paris generally. (This was a somewhat constant source of stress for me, unfortunately, even though I didn’t bring my purse anywhere.) We made our way to the Hilton, which took our bags but (understandably) didn’t have a room for us at 9 in the morning.
We were exhausted, having only slept a little bit on the flight (and not much the night before either, in hopes of being tired enough to sleep on the plane) but a four-day trip to Paris really does impose some discipline in terms of getting stuff done every day. So off we walked to the Musee de l’Orangerie,where we waited in line for half an hour before buying 4-day museum passes. Even though we would end up only being in Paris three days (more on that later), this was a great purchase, both because it allowed us to skip quite a few lines and more importantly because it incentivized us (me, really) not to be cheap and to try a lot of different museums. In the end we probably roughly broke even on the cost versus what we would have paid otherwise, but it was well worth it for those other reasons (I should mention that I really, really hate waiting in line).
The museum was cool, with the highlight of course being the Monet murals that cover two huge rooms. I was crashing hard at this point, though, so we took a break by the mini-lake outside the museum. CW (up for Husband of the Year with this) stayed up and watched my purse, which we didn’t want to leave at the hotel, while I took a much-needed nap for 45 minutes, despite of course being quite tired himself.
Now with a modicum of energy, we walked by the Louvre and to the (further than I realized!) Centre Pompidou, which is the modern art museum. Having just been to the MoMA in New York (among my top three favorite museums, which is saying something coming from me), the Pompidou was somewhat disappointing, although perhaps somewhat because some of the permanent exhibitions were closed for renovation. But still, given that the MoMa literally had almost every single piece of modern art I’d ever heard of, it would be hard for anything else to compare.
By then it was mid-afternoon, and we were ravenously hungry, so we stopped at a nice Italian place for lunch, which gave us enough energy to at least make it to the Metro and back to the hotel (3+ miles away by then). Then we got a long-awaited, lengthy nap, before heading out to the Arc de Triomphe at night. It was funny, too—our hotel was half a mile or so from the Champs Elysses, and walking there was extremely quiet…until you reach the Champs Elysses, where it’s a huge mass of tourists.
There are quite a few restaurants there, as well, but we were just looking for a pastry (actually I wanted a crepe, but none were to be found on that side of the street), so we ended up going to McDonald’s, and I have to say I got a pretty big kick out of the fact that there’s a McDonald’s on the Champs Elysses. But, in our defense, it actually has a full-scale bakery, complete with crossaints, those crossaints stuffed with chocolate, espressos, etc.
The Arc de Triomphe is surrounded by a massive traffic circle, which wouldn’t be quite so notable except that there is not a lane marker in sight—never mind that it’s the equivalent of probably six lanes wide. So needless to say, you have to take a tunnel under the circle to get to the Arc de Triomphe itself. In a prime example of something I might have cheaped out on without the pass, we got to skip the line (and paying) and head up an extremely tall (300+ steps) spiral staircase. (Paris, in general, is most definitely NOT ADA accessible.)
In the dungeon-like space just below the observation deck, they had a cool computer application on which you could pull up images of the various other arches across Europe. I guess this makes me an ugly American, but I didn’t even realize building arches after winning a war was a big thing.
Needless to say, it’s a fantastic view from the Arc de Triomphe, and the trip down the stairs was somewhat easier, at least. We had timed things well, as even though it was quite late (probably 10 by then), it was just starting to get dark, so we were able to get some nighttime pictures of it as well.
Day 1 pictures here.